You're in luck; the Civic DX has the same size brakes as the Si. You could upgrade to the slightly larger '88-'91 EX setup, but you'd need to run 14-inch or larger wheels to do this. You'll need the entire knuckle assembly, including the calipers and rotors. And don't skimp when it comes to pads and tires-this will help more than you might think. Out back you can use any Integra, Civic, or CRX rear trailing arm assemblies, but the '90-'93 Integra's are likely the easiest to find. Find yourself a complete set of rear arms, complete with the brake assembly and emergency brake cables. The whole process is a straight swap; you can even reuse your Civic's rear upper and lower control arms.
Degree Those Cams
Dear Honda Tuning, I am currently building a naturally aspirated B18C1. I have a question concerning the engine's initial timing. I've replaced the stock connecting rods with Eagle H-beam rods of the same length and added 12.0:1 compression pistons. I also had a three-angle valve job done to the head along with porting and polishing, replaced the valvetrain with stock-sized stainless-steel valves, and added Brian Crower dual valve springs and Stage 2 camshafts. My concern is whether or not the base timing has changed, and whether or not it should be re-degreed or re-timed. Love the magazine.
Wesley Lloyd, whereabouts unknown
You should degree your engine anytime you add an aftermarket camshaft. The shop in charge of your engine build should have handled this for you but, if they didn't, you can always pick up a degree wheel and do it yourself. Simply fasten the degree wheel to the crankshaft and set the engine to Top Dead Center. Note the position of the camshafts and use the marks on the wheel to locate where exactly zero degress of camshaft timing is-keep in mind that it might be several degrees different than where your adjustable camshaft gears say it should be, depending on the camshafts you're using. As far as adjusting the ignition timing, set it to stock and leave it there until you visit the dyno.
Map Sensors Explained
Dear Honda Tuning, first, I've got to say, you're awesome. I've been a Hondaholic for eight years and still driving strong. I recently installed an LS-VTEC engine into my '91 Integra. I converted everything to OBD1 except for the MAP sensor. Is my OBD-0 MAP sensor compatible with my OBD-1 setup? My throttle body has no spot for a MAP sensor, which is why I'd like to use the old one. I've also purchased a Hondata four-bar MAP sensor but am having trouble with the S300 unit and can't change my parameters on the ECU. Is there any alternative?
Robert Casanova, whereabouts unknown
Rywire gets this question all the time. All Honda MAP sensors are 0-5V sensors and function the same way. It isn't uncommon for a MAP sensor to disappear when doing an engine swap or an OBD conversion. What was once located on top of your throttle body may not be when the new engine goes into place. Honda MAP sensors read manifold vacuum, which ultimately sends a voltage signal to the ECU, so be sure that whichever MAP sensor you use is tapped into the intake manifold. You'll also want to make sure that the three-pin electrical connector is hooked up. Unless you've got a large turbocharger strapped to your B-series running lots of boost, any of Honda's original equipment MAP sensors will work fine.
Obd-2 Ecu Tricks
I have a '98 OBD-2 Prelude and am running an aftermarket exhaust from GReddy paired with a high-flow catalytic converter. This makes the Check Engine light come on since the O2 sensor after the cat reads the same temperature as the one before the cat. The only way to make this go away is by tricking the ECU, right? How can I trick the ECU into thinking the second O2 sensor is hotter than the first?
Drew North, Melbourne, Florida