Wheel Studs: You Can Do ItThere are a few reasons why you might want to swap your factory wheel studs for something different. Certain wheel offsets and widths, as well as some big brake kits, often require wheel spacers, which as a result can leave few threads exposed on the OEM studs. Some racing organizations, like the NHRA, require wheel studs to protrude a certain amount past the lug nuts-OEM Honda wheel studs are typically not long enough to meet this requirement. Or maybe you've simply found yourself in a situation like we did with our NSX project where a few of the car's studs were stripped and a few others snapped clear off the first time we removed the wheels. It's nobody's fault, really. Studs do wear over time and several thousand heat cycles and improper torque-downs will finally take its toll. A lack of antiseize can do it too. Most extended length wheel studs are stronger than OEM ones, especially if you go with hardware from ARP, an expert in the field of automotive nuts and bolts. ARP's studs are manufactured from 8740 chromoly steel, are cadmium plated, and have a tensile strength of 200,000 psi. Studs like these can easily handle the types of shock loads and lateral forces normally associated with hard launches and cornering-things you do when you're racing. Oh, ARP extended wheel studs look nice too. Swapping short-length OEM wheel studs for longer and stronger ARP ones isn't hard and, fortunately for Honda peeps, the process is similar from car to car. Despite how difficult most procedures are on the NSX, wheel stud replacement is relatively easy. In fact, the installation procedure for the NSX's rear studs is quite similar to most front-wheel-drive Honda's front's. Same thing goes for the other end. No matter which end you're starting on, it all begins with removing the braking assembly. Take off the calipers, pads, caliper brackets, and rotors. Swapping short-length OEM wheel studs for longer and stronger ARP ones isn't hard and, for There's no need to disconnect any brake lines. When removing the calipers, simply tie them to a control arm to avoid damaging the lines. There's no need to disconnect any brake lines. When removing the calipers, simply tie them Some Honda hub assemblies, like the NSX's, are fastened to their knuckle assemblies with four 10x1.25mm studs. The knuckle can be left on the car on these cases, which means you won't need to hassle with disconnecting any ball joints. Use a 14mm wrench or socket to remove the nuts along with anything else that'll get in the way or keep the hub from sliding out, like the ABS sensor that should be unbolted from the NSX's fronts. Most other Honda hub assemblies are pressed into their respective knuckles with large spindle nuts, covered by dust caps. Removing spindle nuts is similar to removing axle nuts-get a good impact gun or your favorite breaker bar and get yourself access to a press. Some Honda hub assemblies, like the NSX's, are fastened to their knuckle assemblies with f NSX front hubs-like Civic, Integra, Accord, or pretty much any other front-wheel-drive Honda's rear hubs-don't necessarily need to be taken apart to swap wheel studs. In fact, when swapping OEM ones for OEM ones, they won't. That means this large spindle nut can be left alone along with the wheel bearings, which is good since NSX wheel bearings aren't cheap. Notice one of the four 10x1.25mm flange nuts that hold the hub to the knuckle-these are NSX-specific. When installing extended length wheel studs in other applications though, there's sometimes just not enough clearance between the hub and the knuckle to work with. This is why the two must sometimes be separated. NSX front hubs-like Civic, Integra, Accord, or pretty much any other front-wheel-drive Hon You're looking at NSX front wheel hubs. Of course, the ARPs have already been swapped over to the unit on the right. They're longer, stronger, and will allow us to do anything from running some fancy open-ended lug nuts to sticking on some fat wheel spacers, should we need them once it's time for a big brake kit upgrade. You're looking at NSX front wheel hubs. Of course, the ARPs have already been swapped over A wheel's backing surface is what holds the rotor to its hub assembly, but these two small screws will still need to be removed before the rotor can come off. The NSX's rear assembly actually looks more like a Civic's front. That's because the NSX uses a transverse-mounted drivetrain-it looks more like a front-wheel-drive engine and trans stuffed in the trunk than a typical rear-wheel-drive configuration would. No matter what you're swapping studs on, the axle nut (front or rear, depending on the application) will need to be removed to get the hub assembly off. Use a punch or screwdriver to bend the set tab out of the way and find the biggest impact gun or breaker bar that you can to bust it off. A wheel's backing surface is what holds the rotor to its hub assembly, but these two small For the NSX's rear, or a Civic's front for that matter, the axle assembly needs to be freed from the hub before going any further. There are a few methods for doing this, some of which can damage the axle end quite easily. Put away the hammer and get yourself a proper axle-removing tool. It works kind of like a bearing press-bolt it to the hub and crank the stud with your favorite socket or wrench. Each crank pushes the axle in a bit farther. Make sure the four bolts are loosened on the back or that the knuckle's ball joints are freed (depending on the application) to allow for the hub assembly to move outward-the axle itself can only move so much since it's still stuck inside the gearbox or intermediate shaft, so don't expect it to pop completely out. For the NSX's rear, or a Civic's front for that matter, the axle assembly needs to be free If you have an NSX, this is what it'll look like once the rear hub is off. Notice that the axle stub is undamaged thanks to our special tool. If you have most any front-wheel-drive Honda and you're looking at your front suspension, the entire knuckle should be lying on the ground at this point. The three ball joints shown here need to be removed in order to get the NSX rear knuckle out. This is a dangerous proposition though since the suspension assembly is made of cast aluminum-NSX ball joints should never be removed unless they need to be replaced. If you need to remove the knuckle, then disconnect the control arms from the chassis and pull the entire member out as one piece. But you won't need to do that here. If you have an NSX, this is what it'll look like once the rear hub is off. Notice that the Most Hondas' rear suspensions allow just enough room to finagle shorter, OEM studs into place without having to disassemble hub bearings. This is a good thing since most people don't have hydraulic presses in their garages and it's easy to damage wheel bearings when removing them. All of this can make a wheel stud install more expensive than what you had originally planned. However, most front-wheel-drive Hondas will require the hub bearings to be removed when installing extended length studs in order to free up clearance between the hub and the knuckle. As long as the bearings are greased properly and carefully pressed out and back in, they can be reused. Most Hondas' rear suspensions allow just enough room to finagle shorter, OEM studs into pl Of course, there are tricks for getting longer wheel studs to slide into place without taking apart the hub assembly. Take the NSX's rear hubs for example, where there was no way in heck an ARP stud was going to slide in without taking things apart. Or so we thought. One solution is to grind down each stud's head, which allows just enough clearance to slip past the four-bolt hub flange. While this method's been done, it can sacrifice the integrity of the hardware so instead we created a small notch in the hub itself. One notch allows all five studs to be slipped into place-provided you rotate the hub for each one-and won't throw the rotating assembly off balance since this portion of the hub doesn't spin. Unfortunately, this trick doesn't work for every application. Of course, there are tricks for getting longer wheel studs to slide into place without tak A hydraulic press also comes in handy when it comes time to get the studs seated but isn't absolutely necessary. A hammer, a good lug nut, and a wrench are all that are needed to seat any stud into a hub. Insert the stud by hand and slide it down until it hits its knurled portion, then tap its head with a hammer, followed by cranking it down with the wrench and lug nut. A hydraulic press also comes in handy when it comes time to get the studs seated but isn't If yours looks like this, you did it right. Some might choose to tack weld the studs in place at this point. This isn't a bad idea but you do need to square up all four or five studs with a wheel before welding anything. If yours looks like this, you did it right. Some might choose to tack weld the studs in pl Torque the axle nuts and spindle nuts to their proper specifications and tap their tangs back into their seats with a hammer and punch. Typically, you'll know you've got the axle and spindle nuts tight enough once their old tangs lines up with their slots in the axle or spindle. Torque the axle nuts and spindle nuts to their proper specifications and tap their tangs b Putting things back together is fairly easy, despite the car. Don't forget to securely torque the hub-mounting bolts in place if you have them. These are, quite possibly, some of the most important bolts on your car in terms of safety. Putting things back together is fairly easy, despite the car. Don't forget to securely tor CONNECT ARP 531 Spectrum Circle Oxnard CA 93030 805-278-7223 « | 1 | 2 | View Full Article By Staff Report Enjoyed this Post? Subscribe to our RSS Feed, or use your favorite social media to recommend us to friends and colleagues!