Brake bleeder valves are often stubborn to remove. Their exposure to the elements is often
Two-Person Manual Bleeding
Two-person bleeding is by far the most common method and can be performed in any home garage without specialized tools. It does, however, require another person's help. Begin by cleaning the old fluid from the reservoir and either turn a full bottle of fresh fluid upside down onto the reservoir or make sure the reservoir is constantly topped off. Now is the time you need to find that extra person. Have him sit in the vehicle and pump the brake pedal several times to build pressure and remove the brake assist reserve. Open the bleeder valve and have your assistant pump the pedal four times, holding it down on the fourth pump until you re-tighten the valve closed. Don't lift off that pedal until the valve's tightened. Make sure the vacuum line drains into a bucket and repeat the process until a steady stream of fluid flows from the valve. Perform this step at each corner, several times until new fluid is visible. The process purges air from the system and as such will spurt and hiss fluid out until completely bled. A solid stream of clean fluid indicates the job is done at that particular corner. Be sure the person pumping the pedal does so no more than halfway to the floor. If it's pushed too far, you run the risk of driving the master cylinder's secondary piston across sediments or deposits that may have collected on the piston cylinder walls. This can permanently and quickly damage piston seals and cause leaks. Place a small block of wood underneath the brake pedal to ensure this doesn't happen.
Bleeding brakes yourself is easy. All you need is a short section of vacuum line and an em
Single-Person Manual Bleeding
Single-person manual bleeding is another do-it-at-home, at-the-track, no-help from-a-friend, kind of job. You'll still need that piece of vacuum hose along with a clean, 20-ounce, clear plastic bottle. Begin by filling the bottle with about 2 inches of clean brake fluid and connect the vacuum hose to the brake caliper bleeder fitting. Next insert the hose into the bottle, making sure it touches the bottom, fully submerged within the fluid. Position yourself in the driver seat and pump the pedal approximately 25 times using slow, controlled pumps, being sure not to pass the halfway point. Repeat the procedure for each caliper (or drum) in the specified sequence.
It's important to replace this small rubber cap when finished bleeding the valve. The cap
Pressure Bleeding
Pressure bleeding is generally reserved for the pros. The process is quick but involves pricey equipment. Connect an air hose to the pressurized bleeding machine, which regulates brake fluid pressure. It works by running new brake fluid through a hose with a fitted cap that seals to the master cylinder's reservoir top so new brake fluid is forced in while pushing out the old. The machine does the work but someone still has to perform the normal bleeding sequence, opening the bleeder valves to catch the old fluid with a small suction line usually provided with the machine. The process is simple and quick, yet expensive and unpractical.
Expensive machinery like this professional brake bleeding machine make quick work of brake
Vacuum Bleeding
Vacuum bleeding is cheaper than pressure bleeding but still requires a specialized vacuum pump, and sometimes an air compressor. Begin by removing the old fluid with the pump's suction end, cleaning sediment from the reservoir. Open a new container of fluid and turn it upside down onto the reservoir-it won't overflow if you're quick. When performing the normal bleeding sequence, suck the old fluid through the brake caliper bleeder until new fluid is visible. Note: Never allow the brake fluid that is in the reservoir to fall below the minimum mark, despite what method you're using-this can damage the master cylinder's internals.