Last month we exposed you to the world of automotive plumbing. We covered everything from what the heck "AN" means to what material hose might work best for your particular application. We discussed the differences between AN threads and NPT ones. We even mentioned the importance of using 37-degree flare, automotive-specific fittings, and not 45-degree, home improvement store brass ones. Of course, theory's only good for so much and whether or not you can actually assemble a hose yourself can make or break an otherwise on-time project.
1) Steel braided hose can be cut with an everyday hacksaw equipped with a 32-tooth per inch blade. It's important to wrap the end of the hose tightly with masking tape to prevent fraying. | 
2) Trim any frayed pieces of wire before removing the tape otherwise assembly will be almost impossible. The hose needs to slide inside the socket's small end; loose frays will prevent it from doing so. | 
3) Press the hose in so that it butts against the socket's internal threads and then pull it back roughly one-sixteenth of an inch. Mark it with a felt tip pen to ensure it doesn't move during assembly. If it does, it'll leak. |
4) Earl's Auto-Fit and Swivel-Seal hose ends install similarly. We're using Swivel-Seal hose ends because of the flexibility they offer. Measurements don't necessarily need to be as exact since the hose ends swivel, even once assembled. | 
5) Lubricate the inside of the hose, the cutter threads, and the socket threads, and twist the hose end into the socket. Do so by twisting the hose by hand-not the socket and not the hose end. Go as far as you can by hand before inserting the socket into a vise. Aluminum vise jaws work well here since they prevent the aluminum fitting from getting scuffed or damaged. | 
6) Do not tighten the hose end to where it touches the socket. Leave a gap of roughly .060 inches and, if you're really particular, line up the socket's flat edges with the hose end's. |