Lude-IcrousI am starting to build an H22-powered EG Civic. Everyone I know has some kind of B-series in the Civic or Integra, but I love high-revving motors. I did some research on the H and F-series motors and have found a lot of people talking about how an F20b crank/rod/piston setup will work in an H22. I have yet to find someone with this setup to prove it. I will have the block sleeved so the piston would be forged and could be custom or a variation of an H or F piston. Will this setup work? And if so, could you guys build one for the magazine?Christopher RagonPortage, IN
You might be a bit misguided when it comes to a high-revving Honda motor platform. If all you're concerned about is a super high RPM range, you'd probably be better suited starting with a B-series. While it is possible to destroke an H22 to make it more capable of high rpm abuse, it'll never be the fast spinning screamer that a B16 or B18 is. That being said, this would still be a fun motor to build. The 1.648:1 rod-to-stroke ratio of the F20b is far more appealing than the 1.577:1 of the H22. That is an even better rod ratio then a B18C5.
It is very possible but, as with any build, there are drawbacks. The deck heights between an H22 and an F20b are the same 219.5mm meaning the rotating assemblies should be able to just swap over. The only problem with that is, the H22's bore is 87mm while the F20's is in 85mm. Luckily, the pistons share a 31mm compression height so the H22 pistons can be mated with the F20b's rods and crankshaft and fill the bore like it did stock. That setup is possible using OEM parts but it'll make less power and torque then a stock H22 would, and the powerband will not change enough to make use of the high rpm ability.
If we were going to do this (which we might now) we'd probably go in an aftermarket direction. An overbore with some aftermarket high compression pistons would make up for the lost displacement while raising the compression and making more power. Add some cams that can make power up in the top of the RPM range and you've got a hell of a motor. Build it. Send us pics. You'll be happy.Dr Barrios
From 2 To 4I have a couple of questions regarding my car. I just recently bought a D16A engine that I believe is a 1.6L from a CRX Si. I have a 1990 Civic DX with a blown motor. It was a D15B with the crappy 2-port Injected [DPFI] 1.5L. What do I need to do my swap from the 1.5L to the D16aA engine? Are there wiring issues involved? Also, can I use my transmission still? What about the throttle cable? Grimaldi RiveraHoboken, NJ
In our opinion, the DPFI to MPFI changeover should be the first modification any EF owner (besides an Si owner) should make on his/her car. Even if you don't plan on keeping a D-series powerplant under the hood, the wiring changes will make using a B-series motor a whole lot easier.
The swap is slightly easier for you because you've already got the intake manifold, injectors, distributor, heater hose and throttle body from the A6. Beyond that, you'll need the Si ECU, a resistor box from an Si. And some extra wires and connectors that you can probably find off of an old harness.
To start, find a service manual so you can understand the pinout locations we're giving you in X# form, (connector/location). Take wires C1 and C2 and connect them to the B10 and B12 terminals. Run new wires from C1 and C2 through the firewall, these will become your CPS wires. Run new wires from A3 and A7 through the firewall also, remember which ones are which either by color or by labeling them. Switch the green/white wire with the yellow/white wire on your throttle position sensor plug and extend them 8-10 inches so the plug can reach the new throttle body location. You'll also want to extend the EACV plug 5-6 inches while you're at it. For the injectors you'll need to start by installing the resistor box on your firewall or inner fender. Run the yellow/black injector wires from the MPFI harness to the yellow/black wires on the box first. Then you'll connect the existing yellow DX injector wire to the No. 1 injector's brown wire and the red one to the No. 3 injector's blue wire (assuming you are using injector plugs from an Si harness, if not, just use the injector number as your reference). Connect the wire you have running through the firewall from A3 to the red wire on the No. 2 injector, and A7 to the yellow wire on the No. 4 injector. Once those wires are all connected, run the red and black wires to the resistor box. Last but not least, you'll need to use the wire you ran from C1 to the blue/green wire on the CPS plug on your Si distributor and C2 to the blue/yellow wire on the same plug and you're ready to go piss off all your neighbors with 1.6L PGMFI-powered burnouts to celebrate your accomplishment.
Compression CheckI own a 2000 Civic Ex coupe and have saved money to do some work to it finally. I want to go with a B16A swap and supercharge it using Jackson Racing products. What compression pistons should I use if I plan on using a 12 psi pulley setup with a Hondata-tuned ECU? And what else do you recommend I do to ensure the car runs smoothly?Chris RiveraYuma, AZ
Most people will tell you to run low compression in a boosted motor. We don't think that is always necessary. The school of thought that says to run crazy low 8.x:1 compression for boost comes from the old days of domestic cars with horrible piston and combustion chamber designs that were prone to detonation even at low boost levels with average compression. We don't have to deal with that problem, that's why we build Honda's. We have the luxury of some of the best head designs on the planet, and in that, it is OK to run 10-11:1 compression in a well-tuned supercharged motor. Check out the March and April issues of HT for a supercharger on a stock Type-R motor. If we can boost a 11.5:1 stock motor, you can definitely run 10.5:1 or 11:1 pistons in yours, even at 12 psi of boost. You'll also have the benefit of forged pistons, which are far less prone to damage then the stock ones are. Don't let anybody tell you to do things the archaic, domestic way. Boost on compression; make power, that's why we build cars in the first place.
Love is BlindI currently have a 98 Integra LS with a 92-96 JDM H22A with an H2B conversion kit. My only problem is that after about a half hour of driving, my check engine light pops on and the car doesn't feel as strong in VTEC. I was told the check engine light was coming on because the EGR valve wasn't hooked up because it wasn't really needed. I was reading one of your issues and saw that someone else had a similar problem with a GSR, and I wanted to know if my case was the same thing (the car is going into limp mode). If so, I've heard from a friend that if I put an upgraded ECU in my car like a Mugen, Spoon, or Jun that it wouldn't allow the check engine light to come on anymore. Please help me and let me know what you think, if you have any other ideas please let me know.Jason Maryland
While they might get rid of your problem, aftermarket "chips" such as Mugen, Jun, or Spoon programs are what most of the tuning world call blind tuning. These chips are optimized for either a stock motor, or one built to the specs of the tuning company. Over the years, the tuning community has come to realize that every motor needs specific fuel and timing maps that are tailored to it using some sort of adjustable fuel/timing tuning solution such as Hondata, AEM EMS, Uberdata/Chrome, Apex`i Power FC, and so forth. These ECU's (or softwares) will not only get rid of your EGR problem, they'll give you the ability to tune your motor for any combination of parts you throw at it. Tuning is the most important aspect of any motor build, whether it is a few mild bolt-on mods or a big, crazy race motor.