B/D Hybrid Manifold?I want to put a B18B throttle body on my D16Z6 manifold. I have read a lot of things online saying that it will work, but does it matter what year the car is? What about whether it is OBD I or II? Will all my stock sensors and throttle cable work? Will I need the B18 gasket? I went to my local NAPA store and they said their books only went to 1990. Will the 1990-91 Integra B18A throttle body work?-Tommy
The bolt pattern on all Honda throttle bodies has been the same since 1988. The differences do not lie in the bolt pattern, but in the configuration of the sensors attached to it. Assuming your Z6 is OBD1, you'll be best off with an OBD I or OBD II throttle body. The difference between the two is the fast-idle valve located on the bottom of the throttle body itself.
If you want to retain the fast-idle valve, and look smog legal, you'll need to get an OBD I throttle body. If you don't care about the fast-idle valve, you can opt for an OBD II throttle body. That's the route I went on a budget turbo build I did a while back.
The OBD II throttle body is a smaller package with the same results. The B18 gasket will work just fine. Stay away from using an non-OBD throttle body, as the sensor configuration on those are quite different then the newer ones. You could use an non-OBD unit, but it is more work then it is worth. You could pick up the part at NAPA, but check online or in junkyards first. Might save you some money.
All of your stock sensors will work with the new throttle body, as long as it is from '92-'00. Don't forget to match the flange on the intake manifold to the throttle body. You'll need to use a die grinder to take about 2.5mm off of the hole, all the way around. If you leave the step in there, it will defeat the purpose of stepping up to the large throttle body.-Dru Barrios
Internal AffairI have a JDM D15B VTEC motor that I intend on building for boost. I don't plan to sleeve the motor, but I'd like to use forged internals. The problem is, I can't seem to figure out what rods and pistons to use. People say that the JDM D15B is different then the rest of the D15's internally. Is this true? What should I use?Matt
Aftermarket rods for a D15B VTEC are easy to find. They are exactly the same as all D16 rods. For that matter, the D15B rods are the same part number as D16Z6 rods. The thing about the JDM D15 that will get you isn't the rods but the pistons. These have a 27.7mm compression height to make up for the extra rod length in a D15 sized deck height. You can get the rods off the shelf, but the pistons are going to have to be custom. The rods out there that are made for the USDM D15's will not work, nor will the pistons. US D15 rods are not only shorter, they have a 42mm con-rod bearing, as opposed to the 45mm bearing in your D15B and any D16. If custom pistons are out of your price range, step up to a D16Z6. You can get a used bottom end cheap, which is ideal if you intend to rebuild it anyhow. For an extra $100, you can get a new block and not have any worries trying to find parts for it.-DB
I Slash-ed my AxleI messed up the threads on my axle where the 32mm nut threads onto it. I've never had to take the axle off before and now I have to replace it. How do I separate the axle from the half shaft? It seems like it is on there pretty good. Thanks in advance guys and keep up the good work.-Ryan
To tell you the truth, the answer to your problem is simply pull harder. The axle is secured into the intermediate shaft with the same type of ring clip that is on the axle going directly into the tranny. All you really need to do is pull really hard and it'll come off. If you feel it's necessary, stick a pry bar or a screwdriver in the gap between the axle and half shaft and pop the axle out. Don't forget to separate the tie rod first, otherwise you'll have a hell of a time trying to get the axle to budge.-DB
What to do when you break your brakesA little while ago, I did a rear disc conversion on my '88 Civic DX hatch. The brakes were off of a '92 LS Integra. I also changed over to a Teg proportioning valve. I bled the brakes and everything, but my foot goes to the floor at a stoplight. The car stops fine, you just have to release and get back on the brakes several times. But you only have to pump the brakes when the car is hot. I've been bleeding the brakes at least once a week. I usually only get a few bubbles, but the brakes still suck. Any suggestions?-Mike
The first thing you need to do is check everywhere there could possibly be a leak in your brake system. Even a small pinhole in a brake line can be very detrimental to the systems ability to function properly. If you do not find any leaks you'll need to check all your brake hardware to make sure it is ok.
Press the pedal a few times-while the engine is off-then press down hard and hold it for 10-15 seconds. If the pedal sinks during the time you're holding down the pedal, you have bad lines, a bad master cylinder, or bad calipers. In that case, pressure (and fluid) is being released somewhere, which a major problem.
If the first test comes out fine, try this one. Step on the pedal, again with the engine off. Turn the car on. If the pedal sinks a bit, your booster is working fine. If the pedal does not sink, there is a problem with your booster.
Also, make sure the booster check-valve is in working order. Press the pedal a few times with the engine off. The pedal should rise gradually after each time. If not, the check valve in the brake booster's vacuum line is probably bad. Your problem sounds like it's just a small leak, but it never hurts to give the brake system a good once over. It'll save your life one day.-DB