I would venture a guess that the reason the B16 is designed that way is for emissions purposes. A motor that makes all of its power on top and has a separate low-speed cam profile will have super-low emissions numbers (every test involved is done under 5000 rpm) and still be a force to be reckoned with. If the B16 wasn't enough for you, there was always the option of stepping up into an Integra with a 1.8L, and subsequently into the next class (which includes higher initial costs and slightly less gas mileage).
As far as your dream motor is concerned, there are a few things you might want to think about before diving in. First, an 87mm bore is unstable. Even though the high R/S ratio will help take away some of the lateral stress on the sleeves, the paper thin walls of an 87mm bore will not last very long. It is most common to go with an 84mm bore if you're worried about longevity.
Every step up thereafter is going to take away some reliability. An 84mm bore will put you somewhere near a 1700cc displacement; an 85 will get you about 50cc on top of that. Second, you're not going to get a whole lot of displacement from the overbore. You might want to consider using a 1.7L crank if you're planning on street driving this motor. The 1.7L crank will net you an extra 100cc's over the B16 and still keep you in roughly a 1.6:1+ rod-to-stroke ratio-sounds like the best of both worlds to me.
That said, I think this motor would be fun as hell. Build it. Don't worry about what everybody else says. I like high-power/rev, low-torque motors, too. If anybody talks smack, just ask what he thinks about a stock F20C. That'll shut them up. - DB
Yes, Master
I have a '94 Civic EX coupe and did the rear drum-to-disc brake upgrade myself. Is it necessary to go with a better brake master cylinder from a del Sol or GSR, or can I stick with the factory master cylinder?
Ray Montanez
Orlando, FL
Your car comes stock with a 7/8-inch piston in the master cylinder. There are two steps up from here. You can go with a GSR cylinder with a 15/16-inch bore, or a Type R unit rockin' a huge 1-inch slug. It isn't absolutely necessary, but you'll notice a huge difference in pedal feel and your ability to modulate the pedal pressure with the larger units.
If you're asking this because your brakes don't feel right after the swap, it is likely your proportioning valve is what's giving you trouble. You'll want to get a 40/40 prop valve from an Si or an Integra to sort out your front-to-back bias. Honestly, I wouldn't fret about the master cylinder until you decide to upgrade the front brakes. I personally rocked a 7/8-inch master on my EJ until I went to the 2-piston Legend calipers. Only then did I really feel like the 1-inch was necessary. - DB
Speak Softly, But Carry A Single Stick
Did you guys ever list the power numbers after "Bubba" tuned the D16 with individual throttle bodies, built head, and Arias pistons? I'm putting together a similar setup including homemade ITB's (mine are from a CBR 600), CroMe tuning software and some other bolt-ons. I'm curious because my motor has about 170,000 miles on it and is starting to burn oil. I wanted to put some pistons and rods in instead of just re-ringing it. I saw that you put the pistons on OEM rods and was wondering what kind of longevity you were expecting. I heard that OEM rods were one of the weak points in the motor.