The Kit
Nitrous Express sent us their GEN-X universal wet nitrous kit to bolt onto Jency's monster motor. The kit is ready to bolt on to just about any EFI car right out of the box. We used the largest jets included in the kit (about a 70 shot) for our purposes. Almost any car can handle this much nitrous oxide in stock form. With a turbo car, you can expect almost double the gains from a shot of nitrous than you would with an N/A car. That is why our 70 shot looked more like a 140 shot.
Clearly, it is not the nitrous' fault that the motor blew up. The power levels we obtained were simply too high for the bottom end to withstand. The motor's limit was about 800 wheel hp whether the extra power came from nitrous, more boost, or another source.
The Fun
Why does fun always come with a big exclamation mark?
This is where I'm supposed to tell you that blowing up your motor on purpose is unsafe and a bad idea. Well, it is unsafe, but if you are brave/dumb/drunk/awesome enough to risk a rod through the face, it is a kick-ass time. Especially when you've got a crowd, bets, cameras, and a dyno to add to the fun.
In case you were wondering, 830-835 hp was the ONLY window that wasn't covered by anybody's bet. Since nobody won, Jency took the money for being a good sport. He deserved it; the winnings weren't even enough to buy another rod, let alone the sleeved block we put a hole in.
Jency, you're a hero for showing everybody such a good time at your expense. Bubba, thanks for letting us get your dyno dirty. I'm sure it won't be the last time.
 The kit comes with a nitrous...  The kit comes with a nitrous pressure gauge. This is important because you need to know not only how much squeeze you have left, but how consistently it will flow. |  This doodad is a pressure...  This doodad is a pressure switch that works like a precautionary measure to keep the bottle heater from overheating the bottle. Once the pressure levels are high enough, the pressure switch will turn the bottle heater off until the pressure drops low enough to necessitate turning it back on. |  This fitting is the valve...  This fitting is the valve adapter. This adapter (along with the siphon tube inside the bottle) is the major difference between the nitrous tank at your dentist's office and the one in the trunk of your car. |
 This is the bottle heater....  This is the bottle heater. The bottle heater does exactly what its name implies. Heating the bottle will keep the pressure level high and consistent, just how we like it. |  These clamps secure the bottle...  These clamps secure the bottle mounting brackets, and the brackets are positioned to keep the bottle at an angle. This helps the siphon tube pick up the liquid nitrous oxide that we want instead of the gaseous nitrous oxide that we don't. |  The solenoid on the right...  The solenoid on the right is the nitrous solenoid. This normally closed valve opens when the engagement button is pushed. The one on the left is a purge valve, used to get all of the gaseous nitrous out of the lines before you squeeze. That way, engagement will be instantaneous when you hit the switch. |