Then these four bolts holding the brake shoe assembly to the trailing arm come out. | 
Ta da! The backing plate, shoe assembly, and parking brake cable are pulled off. As vehicle owner Jeff Drew shows us, the cable runs through the trailing arm, held to it via a grommet, so it is necessary to first unseat the rubber seal on the arm. | 
The cables that came with the kit are routed along the same paths. The cables are also fed into the cabin and the grommets reseated. |
Inside, Drew connects the cables to the equalizer, re-secures the cable clamp and tightens the adjusting nut. | 
New braided line is fastened to the existing hardline in the wheel well, but this time a supplied clip is used to fasten the hose to the bracket. | 
The instructions call for this brake hose bracket on the back of the trailing arm to be moved over for a better fit, so the techs oblige. |
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Thread compound and 35 ft-lb of torque are used to tighten the bolts that hold the rear adaptor bracket to the trailing arm. | 
Inline Four tech David Lin re-installs the hub and hub nut next, making sure to restake the nut. |
Then the rotor is mounted over the hub. | 
The caliper is first bolted to the adaptor bracket and then outfitted with pads, shims and retainers. Once that's done, Lin tethers the cable end to the parking brake actuator lever on the caliper with a clevis pin secured by a cotter pin. | 
Finally, the banjo fitting on the end of the braided line is bolted to the back of the caliper. |
As with any major brake service that exposes the fluid to the atmosphere, the system must be bled before it can be used, as Lin illustrates. The procedure goes something like this: First, Drew removes any residual vacuum from the brake power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off. Lin then fills the master with fluid and checks it often throughout the process--this step is CRITICAL.
Starting at the right rear caliper, Lin loosens the bleed screw slightly and places the end of a length of 3/16-inch hose over the bleed screw. The other end of the hose is connected to a clear container that will catch the fluid and hopefully reveal any air bubbles in the fluid stream. Drew pumps the brake slowly a few times to get pressure in the system, then holds the pedal down while Lin bleeds the brake, opening the bleed valve just enough to allow fluid to exit. Once no air bubbles are escaping through the hose, he tightens the valve and moves on to the next caliper, repeating the procedure. When he's all done, Lin makes sure the master is filled with fluid.
The finished product looks tres chic. Drew also tells us the new brakes deliver some killer stopping power, which always warms our hearts. Inline Four's Lin did point out one last issue, however; since the Civic is going from a disc/drum arrangement to pure discs, Drew will need to pick up a master cylinder and proportioning valve from a 1995 Civic Si. Basically in a four-disc setup, a different amount of fluid needs to be pushed to the brakes than in a disc/drum system, hence the Si parts. Until those are changed, Drew will have to deal with a mushy pedal.