Honda Accord LX Disc Brakes Upgrade - Honda Tuning Magazine

As in losing those antiquated drums on the back end of your fifth-gen Accord LX and replacing them with disc brakes. AutoWave shows us how the conversion is done.

A note on bleeding the brake system: If you've never done it before, we recommend you at least take a look at a Chilton's or Haynes manual to get an idea on how the process goes. It's a fairly straightforward routine but we cannot overstress its importance. After all, we're talking about what stops your car, and any compromise you make in this area could adversely affect not only you but those around you as well.

The procedure goes a little something like this: first, remove any residual vacuum from the power booster by applying the brake several times with the engine off. Fill the master with brake fluid and check it often throughout this process (this is CRITICAL). Starting at the right rear brake, loosen the bleed screw slightly and place the end of a length of 3/16-inch hose over the bleed screw. Submerge the other end in a clear container of brake fluid and then have a buddy pump the brake slowly a few times to get pressure in the system.

With your assistant holding the pedal down while you bleed the brake, open the bleed valve just enough to allow fluid to exit. Watch the submerged end of the hose for air bubbles. If the fluid flow slows and you still have bubbles coming out, close the screw, make sure the master is full and repeat the process. Once no air bubbles are escaping through the hose, tighten the valve and move on to the left front, then the left rear and finally the right front brake, repeating the procedure at each brake.

When you're all done, make sure the master is filled with fluid. Then take the car out for a spin and check the brakes. The pedal should feel solid, with little to no sponginess.

[1] AutoWave sourced the '95 Accord EX rear cross member/suspension/brake assembly from K&P Auto Dismantlers in Fontana, Calif. It basically bolts right onto the '94's chassis.
[1] AutoWave sourced the '95 Accord EX rear cross member/suspension/brake assembly from K&
[2] The Accord will go on the lift shortly but while it's still on terra firma a few things need to be addressed inside the cabin. AutoWave tech Mike LaPier gets the project rolling by removing both sets of rear shock upper mounting nuts that are hidden behind the back seat and trunk lining.
[2] The Accord will go on the lift shortly but while it's still on terra firma a few thing
[3] Next, he removes the back half of the center console to get at the parking brake cables underneath. The console is freed by removing a pair of screws concealed under a panel on the floor of the storage compartment.
[3] Next, he removes the back half of the center console to get at the parking brake cable

[4] With the console out of the way, LaPier can remove the parking brake cable clamp.
[5] He can also unhook the brake cables from the equalizer. This is easier to do when the adjusting nut has been sufficiently loosened.
[5] He can also unhook the brake cables from the equalizer. This is easier to do when the
[6] Time to get dirty underneath the car. First, LaPier pulls off the wheels and then removes the shock-to-lower arm bolts. This frees up the strut assembly enough to move it out of the way. You'll notice a lot of oxidation on some of the suspension components--LaPier tells us the car came from the Midwest, where road salting is pretty common and not entirely good for your car's undercarriage. To help remove some of those rusted-on bolts, LaPier sprays on some TriFlow Superior Lubricant.
[6] Time to get dirty underneath the car. First, LaPier pulls off the wheels and then remo

[7] The end links on the aftermarket anti-roll bar are dismantled next. Elder LaPier and AutoWave head honcho Shane tells us the factory links on the EX's stabilizer bar are compatible with aftermarket bars, yet another plus about the swap.
[7] The end links on the aftermarket anti-roll bar are dismantled next. Elder LaPier and A
[8] The anti-roll bar bushing brackets are unbolted next. Be ready to catch the bar because these are the last fasteners holding it in place.
[8] The anti-roll bar bushing brackets are unbolted next. Be ready to catch the bar becaus
[9] LaPier then removes the bar's pivot mounting brackets. The two bolts also happen to be among the fasteners holding the cross member in place, so removing them is a time saver as well.
[9] LaPier then removes the bar's pivot mounting brackets. The two bolts also happen to be

[10] The aftermarket lower tie bar comes out by removing the control arm pivot bolts.
[11] The flexible hose that connects the brake line in the wheel well to the hose bracket on the trailing arm is pinched off with a pair of locking pliers. This is done to both passenger- and driver-side brakes. The hoses are pinched off to prevent brake fluid from going all over the place and will not be reused. Instead, LaPier plans to use the hoses that came with the replacement brakes.
[11] The flexible hose that connects the brake line in the wheel well to the hose bracket
[12-13] On the trailing arms, LaPier uses a flare-nut wrench to break loose the brake line-to-hose fittings, and then finishes unscrewing the fittings with a standard combination wrench. It's important to use a flare-nut wrench on these fittings to avoid rounding off the edges on the nut. Note how there are more sides to a flare-nut wrench vs. an open-end wrench, which means more surface area to grab onto the nut.
[12-13] On the trailing arms, LaPier uses a flare-nut wrench to break loose the brake line

[13]
[14-15] This clip slides off the bracket next, freeing the hose from the brake line on the suspension.
[14-15] This clip slides off the bracket next, freeing the hose from the brake line on the
[15]

[16] The hoses are ultimately liberated from the suspension after unbolting them from their respective brackets on each trailing arm.
[16] The hoses are ultimately liberated from the suspension after unbolting them from thei
[17] The parking brake cable comes out next, but before it can be separated from the Accord several other items need to be removed first to gain access, like the exhaust. Shane LaPier unbolts the piping from the catalytic converter and uses some WD-40 on the rubber hangers so the piping and muffler come off more easily.
[17] The parking brake cable comes out next, but before it can be separated from the Accor
[18] The underbody aluminum heat shield is unbolted next, followed by the removal of a large plastic cover that was shielding the gas tank.
[18] The underbody aluminum heat shield is unbolted next, followed by the removal of a lar

[19-20] The cable housing clamps are then unbolted, as is the bracket nearest to where the cables enter the cabin.
[19-20] The cable housing clamps are then unbolted, as is the bracket nearest to where the
[20]
[21] Finally, the cables and their grommets are pulled away from the underside of the vehicle.
[21] Finally, the cables and their grommets are pulled away from the underside of the vehi

[22] The last bolts securing the rear assembly to the frame are removed, starting with the upper arm bolts.
[22] The last bolts securing the rear assembly to the frame are removed, starting with the
[23] Off come the trailing arm bushing clamp bolts.
[24-25] And the last ones to go are the two remaining bolts holding in the cross member. Be warned: the entire assembly drops at this point, arms and all, so it's a good thing to get some help with this step. LaPier enlists the help of his father to finish up the removal.
[24-25] And the last ones to go are the two remaining bolts holding in the cross member. B

[25]
[26-27] Guess what? Installation is the reverse of removal (bet you didn't see that coming!). We should point out that the EX assembly that AutoWave put in came with wiring and sensors for antilock brakes, but those are easily eliminated. The wiring is held in place with just some clips and the sensors are bolted onto each brake's backing plate.
[26-27] Guess what? Installation is the reverse of removal (bet you didn't see that coming
[27]

[28] Since we have discs at all four corners now, the master cylinder needs to be replaced to match the new configuration. Why, you ask? In a four-disc setup, a different amount of fluid needs to be pushed to the brakes, and a four-disc master has different valving to accomplish this. Using a flare-nut wrench, LaPier starts the process by unscrewing the fittings at the master. It's a good idea to remove as much fluid as you can out of the master before this, and then put down some shop rags in the engine compartment under the master to catch any spilled brake fluid.
[28] Since we have discs at all four corners now, the master cylinder needs to be replaced
[29] LaPier then disconnects the electrical brake fluid warning lead at the master and removes the nuts attaching it to the brake power booster. The master can come out now.
[29] LaPier then disconnects the electrical brake fluid warning lead at the master and rem
[30] Sometimes the seal in between the master and the booster will stick, so it's always a good idea to double check and make sure it comes out with the master. Installation of the new master is reverse of removal; just make sure you use only one seal in between master and booster (more than one and you could lose a bunch of fluid).
[30] Sometimes the seal in between the master and the booster will stick, so it's always a

[31] With all the parts in place, there are just two things left to do before hitting the road. First and most importantly, the brakes MUST be bled. Anytime the brake system's fluid is exposed to air, you have to bleed the system to purge the air from it. Secondly, the rotors on the rear discs should really be resurfaced for a perfectly flat finish for the calipers to clamp onto. Any number of service shops should be able to handle the resurfacing task. Knock those last few things out and you should be good to go!
[31] With all the parts in place, there are just two things left to do before hitting the