The JDM transmission isn't necessarily stronger than the U.S.-spec one but that doesn't mean it'll fail on you right away. Your biggest problem is going to be getting the torque converter to hold the kind of power you want. You can try to find somebody who specializes in beefier torque converters but it'll probably be cheaper and most likely easier to just do the five-speed conversion along with a clutch that's capable of the kind of torque you're making. With the right mounts and brackets you can swap any '90-'97 Accord or '92-'96 Prelude manual transmission into place. If you decide to do the conversion, be sure to pick up a pedal assembly, shift cables and shifter assembly, clutch master cylinder and lines, as well as the correct transmission mount, all from the manual-trans-equipped model. You also might want the gauge cluster from a manual trans model. You should be able to make all of this happen for well under $1000, in day's work, with parts that are readily available.
Torsion Bar Q&A
First, I love your mag and I'm a long-time reader. I have an '87 Civic with a torsion bar suspension and I want to lower it. I was told that all I need to do is to take the bars out and turn them a couple of splines and that would get the job done. I want to bring it down so there is no more gap. I think there is more to it than that or am I wrong? If that's all there is to it, which way do you turn them and by how much? I am also thinking about an engine swap but I'm not sure what to go with. I have a D15A2 in it now. I just want to find something that will drop in with little to no extra work. Or would it be better to rebuild my engine? Thanks for your help.
-Jeff C., U.S. Army, Ft. Bragg, NC
Yep, the '84-'87 Civics all have torsion bar suspensions up front instead of coil springs. Torsion bars occupy less space, reduce unsprung weight, make for a smaller overall package up front, and they're amazingly simple. Look for the adjustment nuts on each of the two torsion bars underneath the car and loosen them. You can lower the chassis about a half an inch using this method. For an even lower drop you'll need to remove the bars altogether and move them down a notch. Be careful when doing this though as you'll sacrifice quite a bit of suspension travel. To regain that travel you'll need to reposition the struts lower by grinding off the brake line brackets or you can install a set of adjustable camber plates. Of course, the brake line bracket trick is free. Out back, your wagon has a beam axle setup with coil springs-no torsion bars here. To drop the rear you'll need to follow the same method you would for any newer Civic. Your options range from lopping off coils to full-blown adjustable coilovers. In terms of engine swaps, we'd recommend going with a B-series, specifically either a B16A or B18C engine. Yes, there are other options-like D-series and ZC engines-but companies like Hasport have made this swap relatively easy and the aftermarket support for the B is like nothing else.
Boost Concerns
Hi, I currently own an Integra Type R and I plan to boost its B18C5 engine. My modifications consist of Scat rods, 10:0:1 Wiseco pistons, a Cometic headgasket, and ARP head studs and rod bolts. I'll be tuning the car with an AEM standalone using a Zeitronix wideband meter. My only problem is that I plan to run 10-15 psi on a Turbonetics T3/T4. Before I build the engine, I want to know if using a blockguard is a good idea or a bad one. I've been hearing some bad things about them. The one that I'll be using is not a cheap one...it's a NuFormz, I think. Should I install it on my build or not? What would be safer? Help please.
-Ryan Archer, whereabouts unknown