Hey HT, I’m building a K24 motor for my ’95 Civic hatchback, and I’m wondering how much compression is safe to run on 91 octane. I’ll be using custom pistons (when I figure out what compression) and a factory head gasket. I just don’t want to run too much compression and have to worry about detonation. I’m new to K motors, but I’ve built multiple B-series screamers without any problems in the past.
Marcus, if you are building up a K24 engine, I would keep it under 11.5 compression ratio, and even then it is pushing it a little bit. A lot of guys, including myself, are running the Japanese K20A engine with 11.5 compression on California 91 octane. Technically 11.1 would be a safer suggestion, but when making power is the goal we must push the envelope at all costs! Always remember a proper tune for your engine is the most important thing you can do to have your investment last. This can be overlooked, but it is an extremely important aspect that I will continue to mention.
What up, Ryan! Hope you can give me some advice, I’m afraid to ask anything on the forums since it’ll end up in a huge fight, I’m sure! When it comes to doing a homemade wire tuck on a car like my ’90 Civic Si, what is the best way to extend wires? What I mean is, What’s the safest type of connector to use? I want to make sure my wires aren’t going to pull apart in a year or something.
Sergio, I never suggest extending wires. Not because of increased resistance or interference as much as reliability! When you have no choice and must extend wires, I suggest making solder joints in areas with little to no harness strain. You want them in long, straight areas that are not going to be flexed. Another good idea is to use high-quality heat shrink, sometimes a couple of layers thick, since solders have a tendency of poking through the shrink and shorting out. The last suggestion would be to always stagger the solders. Keep them spaced so you do not have a group of joints all in the same place. This technique will cut down on bulky spots in the loom, and have less chance of shorting out due to sharp, poky solder joints.
Give me a hand, HT! I was recently handed down a used ’93 GS-R. I love the car, but I want more power! I know the B17 is a good motor, but it’s just not enough. I want to keep the car all motor, and I’m wondering for daily driving and occasionally hitting the quarter-mile what would be a better setup: B20/VTEC or just building the B17? I know the B17 has a low compression and there’s plenty of cams and bolt-ons out there, but that 2.0L sounds so fun!
Jason, honestly the sky is the limit. You can make huge power on B-series engines; it is just your budget, knowledge, and will to succeed that will hold you back! In my honest opinion I would suggest the setup that I just put in my CRX last year. A relatively stock B18C engine. Upgrades can be made if you choose to squeeze some more power out of it later on down the line, but for reliability and performance, a B18C is amazing. With its high-revving valvetrain and short transmission ratio, it is a blast to drive with throttle response like an on/off switch! Recommending a non-VTEC block like a B20 is tough for me to do because if you miss any important steps, it can be really bad. Making upgrades to the B18C like intake, head porting, valvetrain, cams, ignition, and a engine management will give you great performance without sacrificing reliability. Find yourself a good tuner and make all the modifications really work for you. Good luck!